Initially, negative or slide? In the event that you need high contrast, it’s going to be negative. For me, another integral factor is the film speed...I incline toward negatives in case I’m purchasing film over ISO 200 for some reason...grain on slide film is simply not my thing. Likewise, you should keep an eye on spots that procedure slide film (E6) - which isn’t so basic as negative handling. In the event that you can’t discover a lab that does E6 slide handling, you must choose between limited options however negative. Also, finally, yet significantly, recall that standard where we state negative film is increasingly mediocre. On the off chance that you have a precise light meter, and you think your presentation will be right on target, you can proceed with slide. In any case, on the off chance that you have any questions, or you need adaptability, unquestionably proceed with the trusty negative film
Next, obviously you’re going to pick high contrast or shading. Nothing to clarify here
Film speed! Ok, this is vital. ISO 100, known as sunlight film, is clearly for shooting in sunshine. Certainly, this gives fine grain, however fine grain hazy shots taken during the evening are not going to take a gander at ALL. I’d take sharp however grainy night shots any day over the hazy fine grain ones. So realize what you will shoot, where you will shoot, and what time you will shoot. Shooting in sunlight does not mean you ONLY need to pick a moderate (50, 100) film - like I referenced previously, have a go at shooting some grainy road shots with a fast film. However, taking shots during the evening SHOULD imply that you have to pick a rapid (400, 800) film
Finally, choose a brand that possibly you know by involvement, or have found out about (here, perhaps!), that has attributes that you need for this specific shoot. Hues, differentiate, immersion, sharpness, grain/speed execution, surface - relying upon what you’re shooting, take a gander at these variables and pick one
Also, then...stick it in your camera and go shoot!
But...and there’s consistently a but...remember that in the present photography world, film is quite often checked. Notwithstanding when making prints, your photograph lab will more often than not check your film and make prints out of the sweeps, not utilizing the customary and likely less helpful technique for making ‘wet prints’ in the darkroom. This means, despite the fact that you will see qualities of your sorts of film, your last yield can change a considerable amount in the examining procedure. A shot with rather dull and dormant hues can be improved a lot, paying little respect to the film type you have utilized, utilizing examining programming and Photoshop. Another shot of hues that appear to be over-immersed or affected kino stream can be controlled, blurred, or even made high contrast!
Obviously, this can be great and awful. In case you’re checking yourself, this gives you more noteworthy imaginative authority over the last picture, so in the event that you truly work at your examining procedure, you can wind up with some extraordinary outcomes. Notwithstanding, in the event that you complete them at the lab, you’re kind of helpless before the lab fellow. For instance, I rescanned a shot that I got filtered at the lab...a shot of a blossom, which the lab checked as a red bloom. My output demonstrated it purple. Right up ‘til the present time, I don’t know what shading the blossom truly was, however this shows what should be possible. I can turn the blossom red on the off chance that I want...or leave it purple...or make it pink...I have a lot of choices, truly. At last, I simply need to make it look how I think it looks best. Also, that is the thing that I did (I left it purple) - yet that truly demonstrated to me the amount of a job checking plays, and how much your last outcome can be changed, regardless of what the film brand or type that was utilized